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Kona Coffee Farming: Escape or Reality?

What really makes a Kona coffee farmer, who they are, why they do it, or just for the mental exercise: Could I, too, become a filthy-rich, sunny-day, surfing, breeze-shooting Hawaiian coffee? farmer? This is a very subjective behind-the-scenes explanation of the most pressing question people seem to have on their minds when they meet one of us coffee guys. So, for the sake of that, let’s classify:

cherry farms

they are often in the hands of the same family for three or four generations. These farms originated to provide additional income to the day jobs that worked in the sugar cane fields in the 19th century. The high number of children and grandparents allowed the owners to carry out unpaid hard coffee field work in the mornings, afternoons and Sundays. Most of Kona’s coffee is grown in the vicinity of the residences of family farmers; planted between rocks in irregular patterns, ranging from 100 to 1,000 trees per acre, often interspersed with other crops and some shade trees. Almost all of it is sold as freshly picked coffee cherries to large processors, who also throw in a few bags of fertilizer for free. Parcels range from 1 to 5 acres and are often leased for 40-year terms. This is and always has been the backbone of the Kona coffee industry. None of the farmers have to worry too much about government inspections on the use of pesticides or herbicides, or the quality standards of the coffee. The cheap leasing of the land, which requires some agricultural practices, justifies the small profit. Living and living in Hawaii is expensive, and the rural lifestyle eases the financial burden somewhat. Most cherry growers are of Japanese, Filipino, or Hawaiian background and reside in the South Kona district. Age group: 50 – 90, 2 to 3 family generations under one roof. Many are members of the Kona Pacific Farmers Coop and are not tied to any farmer organization. No web presence or farm tours offered.

Coffee plantations 

in Kona they are increasing in size, but there are only a few names in this category. All are owned by corporations or individuals with financial backing from the mainland. Their sizes range from 20 to 60 acres and often contain other outlying parcels. In this production system recommended seedlings are used, stony ground is bulldozed, row planted, proper cover crops, mulch, manure, weeding, and pruning methods are practiced. Almost all of them use chemical fertilizers and herbicides, since they are purely profitable. Their coffees are always inspected and certified by the State. However, most of their harvested coffees end up as highly profitable “10% Kona blends” to deceived tourists, who believe this coffee is pure Kona bean. The remainder is sold to green coffee brokers in Japan and the continental United States. In addition to their own production, they purchase freshly picked coffee cherries from smaller farms at a fluctuating price per pound. They also process and grade coffee for farmers who lack the large equipment required. When buying from them always look for their expensive private labels otherwise you will get the coffee from many farms. Traditionally, these large plantations in Hawaii went bankrupt in recessions due to their high overhead costs. Cherry farmers may not get paid on time, but they can hibernate during the current recession simply by neglecting their orchard for a season or two. The owners and managers are nearly all longtime Caucasian Hawaiian residents, who have experience with the local political culture. They organize into the Hawaii Coffee Association and the Hawaii Coffee Growers Association to uphold the flawed legal status of Kona Blend laws. Age group: 35 to 65; ‘good old’ networkers; SCAA members and exhibitors; all offer farm tours, farm shops, and professional websites. Its Kona coffees and Kona Blends have a strong presence in stores across the continental United States and Hawaii.

lords farms

or “Snowbird Farms” grow coffee on their properties as a hobby, as a tax incentive, or because a vacation property is zoned ‘agricultural’. One can turn over the actual work entirely to one of the larger plantations, which in turn provides some roasted coffee on demand, in case the owner wants to sell a few bags with his own label. These types of farms are not really destined to be profitable, but this does not indicate if their coffees are good, bad or excellent. Some are organically grown. Some even sell their well-kept cafe below cost. The owners have other sources of income and only reside part time in Kona. Under US tax law, a property qualifies as a “farm” when it generates more than $1,000 in sales per year. Farmer gentlemen, you are mostly Caucasian who strive to live a quiet and easy Hawaiian life and have a story to tell when asked what they are doing all day. long. Geographically in the North Kona district centered around Holualoa. The 55-80 age group is made up of retirees, married couples, single women. They have no professional affiliation or only nominal memberships in the Kona Coffee Council and the Kona Coffee Farmers Association. Some have websites and generally do not offer farm tours.

Buy farms 

they are yet another category, but they are the fastest growing segment. The vertical integration of cultivation, processing and direct marketing to the customer and the ownership of all means of production is essential. In fact, a small profit margin is possible, but a multidisciplinary approach is needed on the part of the owners to keep any outsourcing to a minimum. About a quarter of them practice organic farming and are concerned about the environment. However, the combination of old age, hard physical work, and a lack of computer skills is a challenge for many. But big egos nurtured in previous high-flying professions also get in the way: Farming humbles you but not instantly. Several of these farms defaulted during the current recession, because their owners overlooked that the equipment must be written off, and public awareness of Kona coffee has always been low. Building a solid customer base for a farm takes approximately 5 years. Learning the ins and outs of growing coffee around 3 years or older. This group of farmers sees the faulty Kona Blend grade as the biggest obstacle to a higher price for Kona coffee. However, they oppose quality control and state inspections of their product, which does not fly with the government. The owners are mostly mainland Caucasians and are sometimes married into Hawaiian families of various ethnic backgrounds. One might encounter a colorful variety of the human species in this group: the aging hippie, the retired colonel, the liberal professor, the activist lawyer, the Silicon Valley mini-mogul. They occasionally organize and challenge the legal status quo of the legislature. Age group: 40 to 75, couples, gay couples, single women, single men. Affiliation: Kona Coffee Growers Association or none. Primarily home web shops, store presence in some Hawaiian shops, farm tours offered on request.

There you go. None of this background information indicates that one particular Kona coffee tastes better than the other! As long as it’s not a ‘mix’ or a fake, of course. The boundaries between the categories are also not that well defined, as a farm may be a ’boutique’ but also offers processing. Or it might look like a big plantation with managers and all, but it’s kept afloat by partnership income from a large Los Angeles law office. Or a fourth-generation Japanese cherry farm successfully entered the cyber age with a stunning website.

Kona coffee beans are grown independently and despite local politicking on their behalf. A coffee tree does not judge its farmer based on skin color, age, sexual orientation, political affiliation or previous profession. Only if they tickle the leaves from time to time…